Arnold Boris and Ike Seamans

The Royals don't routinely travel on the QE2 these days, although on my cruise across the Atlantic I met a man said to be descended from Nigerian kings. Built in 1969 to serve the rich (it did have tourist class), the stately ship has a democratic air today, superior service graciously provided to all without a hint of British haughtiness.

"It's a proper ship", says Cruise Host David Taylor who joined the staff in 1970 after a long stint on the Queen Mary. "There's an unmatched elegance."

Magic Ship
QE2's name is magic. When I told friends about my trip, the reaction was "Wow"! When I once flew on the supersonic Concorde, the response was a tepid, "Oh, that's nice".

The last of the great ocean liners still sailing the Atlantic and ports of call around the globe, this regal wonder is not just for old folks. There were many teens and couples in their 20s and 30s as well as 400 repeat passengers on my voyage from New York to Southampton. Boston realtor Sid Goldenberger has sailed 9 times, 18 for John Mosher, a retired lobbyist from Annapolis, Maryland. At the Captain's cocktail party, a woman boasted of 30. "It's cruising in the grand style with understated luxury", said Goldenberger.

The world's most famous passenger ship was refurbished two years ago without losing her famed elegance. Amenities--gym, spa, computer center--have been added, cultural programs expanded. I heard lectures on interior design, art, health, books, and actor Terence Stamp discussed acting. TV chef Julia Child led cooking demonstrations.

Like other ships, there's diverse entertainment but perhaps only in the QE2's Golden Lion Pub on Karaoke night can two distinguished and kilted Scottish passengers be found singing "My Way"!

For 1750 passengers there are 962 staterooms ranging from inside cabins on lower decks to split level Grand Suites with balconies at the pinnacle. The priciest units sell first. "This ship sells from the top down, the most expensive cabins usually are the most sought after", says Taylor.

"One Class" Ship
The QE2 is called a "one class" ship, but depending on price there are 4 levels of service. Taylor says the average price per person on my cruise was $6,300 including return airfare from England. Full fares ranged from $22,000 per person for a Grand Suite to $2,200 each for the cheapest cabin, but substantial discounts are offered by booking early.

Each level has its own gourmet restaurant with vast menus, everything from hamburger to caviar (QE2's the world's largest purchaser of the delicacy). My wife and I had a table to ourselves served by two waiters who anticipated every request.

"Dressy Ship"
"It's a dressy ship", said Fiona Mullen of Deerfield Beach, Florida a retired school teacher. There were 4 formal nights on the 6-day transatlantic crossing: tuxedos or dark suits for men, long gowns or cocktail dresses for women. In my dining room, 95 percent wore tuxes and gowns, a Nigerian couple donned ceremonial robes, two Japanese women were stunning in kimonos and, ah yes, those Scottish "singers" were formally attired in kilts! "It's very British, gentility and all that", joked June Wise, an Englishwoman who's been a Fort Lauderdale antiques dealer for more than 30 years. The Americans savored every second of a style and tradition rarely seen back home.

Despite torrid competition, the QE2--owned by Cunard, a subsidiary of Miami's Carnival Corporation--blissfully sails on, its passengers seeking illusion and grandeur from an older time. That's something her glitzier rivals in the cruise ship industry may never be able to match.

Ike Seamans is a television journalist, former NBC News correspondent and freelance writer based in Miami.