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Surprising Hungary!
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| Budapest |
By Arie Boris
I love finding a place where my expectations are filled with a reality far more appealing than I could have imagined! My first visit to Hungary, at the end of a Danube River cruise, was a very welcome surprise!
I really didn't know what to expect. After all, what do we provincial Americans associate with Hungary besides goulash and Zsa Zsa Gabor? When you think about it, it is a stretch. I would have never guessed the "wine culture" in California, (you know, Napa and Sonoma Valley), was started in the early 1900's by Agoston Haraszti, a Hungarian winemaker.
Hungary is a country filled with vineyards and a surprising spectrum of fine wines. While many overseas wine buyers tend to ignore Eastern European wines in favor of their French, Italian and New World counterparts, high quality wines are produced here with a passion. A good place to get a wonderful overview of the different wines of Hungary is the House of Hungarian Wines on the Buda side of the Danube (www.kertnet.hu/mbh). The store stocks almost every Hungarian wine product and is dedicated to wine education. The tasting cellar is staffed with well-versed English speaking Hungarian wine enthusiasts who are very generous with samples.
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| Hungarian Strudel |
Perhaps the best-known Hungarian wine-producing region is the Tokaj, about three hours northeast of Budapest. We spent a day in the vineyards and wine cellar of Istvan Szepsy, the winner of the prestigious Hungarian "Wine grower of the Year" award. We followed him through his vineyards in September, as the late harvest time approached for the famous Tokaji Aszu, sweet dessert wine. The rolling hills, the jovial local grape pickers and the endless rows of sweet juice-laden grapes made the day a memorable one. His knowledge of the subtle nuances that affect the grapes was incredible. The soil content, their location on the hills, the amount of moisture and most of all the taste of the mature grapes determine when this master vintner gives the go ahead to harvest what will become the next generation of award wining dessert wine. As we sat with him, in his wine cellar, sipping his incredible 2000 Cuvee (only $200 dollars per bottle) one member in our party complimented our host by saying, "one taste of your dessert wine makes me want to make love for the first time again!" High praise indeed!
The famous "Bull's Blood," a dry full-bodied red wine produced in the town of Eger, is flavorful, with a sumptuous bouquet. The renown Gundel's Restaurant in Budapest has it's own brand of this delicious wine which makes dining there an even more remarkable experience. According to the 2001 Wine Guide, published by Dr. Gabor Robaly, a founding member of the Hungarian Wine Academy, there are 22 distinct wine regions that collectively produce fine red, white, dessert and sparkling wines with a quality comparable to any wine producing country in the world.
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| Budapest International Wine Festival |
A wine tasting, alone, is worth the trip to Hungary! In fact, the Budapest International Wine Festival takes place every September for several days and is one of the most enjoyable wine events in the world. Wine producers from all over the country come to the grounds of the National Palace high atop the hills of Buda. With a breathtaking view of the city below, hundreds of locals dressed in period costumes representing every wine-producing region, host wine tasting as throngs of people wander among the different booths with tasting glass in hand. There is entertainment, food and best of all a chance to sample the wide variety of wines Hungary has to offer.
I had the pleasure of meeting several vintners at the wine festival, including the owners of Hilltop from the Neszmely region, Eva Keresztury and Torok Imre. Together we sampled their selection of fine wines including a delightful Virgin Vintage Chardonnay 2001 produced exclusively for the American market. It was such a pleasure, not only to taste the wine with them, but also to witness their passion for wine making.
Budapest offers an array of excellent hotels and quite wonderful restaurants. I stayed at the Hilton Budapest West End, a stylish, modern hotel located in the heart of the city. It is part of a new shopping mall with over 400 retail stores and restaurants. The entire complex is a symbol of the economic growth that has taken place in just ten years since the end of Communist rule. Fortunately, that period and the history of the city, is still very present and quite fascinating to explore.
The Danube slices through Budapest. Buda the older more historical side and Pest the commercial center are connected by the famous "Chain Bridge". Outdoor cafes line the Pest side providing a relaxing place for a beer and lovely view of the old city with the National Palace at the top of the Buda hills. The Central Market Hall is a lively market where the locals come to do their food shopping. It's a tradition that started when the hall was completed in 1896. Located at one end, over looking the colorful stalls is a traditional Hungarian restaurant, Fakanal (Wooden Spoon) that also offers classes in Hungarian home cooking.
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| Old Jewish Quarter |
In the old Jewish Quarter, the ornate towers of the old temple are an impressive sight, as is the Holocaust Memorable around the corner. Adolph Eichmann used the temple towers as a broadcast station for Nazi propaganda during the occupation. There is also a plaque commemorating January 18th 1945, the day the gates of the Budapest Ghetto were destroyed by the "liberating" Soviet army.
I dined in Carmel, a "Jewish Style" restaurant nearby that was fascinating. For starters, it was open on Yom Kippur and had crab with garlic on the menu. Our meal started with chopped egg and onion, stuffed carp in aspic (their version of Gefilte Fish) and goose (not chicken!) soup with Matzo Balls. The main entree was perch with a mushroom sauce and stuffed cabbage. The entire meal was delicious. I mentioned that my Eastern European grandmother had cooked stuffed cabbage and in New York it was considered a Jewish delicacy. Our Hungarian host responded with "It is not a traditional Jewish food here, everyone in Hungary eats stuffed cabbage!" So much for my culinary ethnic identity!
From the chilled tomato soup served in a whole red pepper at Gundal (which has been serving meals to diplomats and world leaders since 1910), to Karpathia's Chicken Paprikash served with a side of "live gypsy music", dining in Hungary is sublime. The contemporary menu and modern design of relative newcomer, Cosmo Bar & Restaurant contrast with the more classic dining at Gambrinus, long rated one of the best restaurants in Hungary. Both were wonderful dining experiences and reflect the diversity and many fine options available during a visit to Budapest.
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| Golden Dragon Restaurant |
An interesting side trip is to Szentendre, about an hour from Budapest. The name (St. George) is a reference to the town's Serbian heritage. It is a charming village with a rich history. We ate at Aranysarkany (Golden Dragon), Hungary's first private restaurant. According to legend, St. George killed a dragon and is the patron saint to the Serbs. The restaurant is located in a converted attic and has an open kitchen separated from the dining room by a two hundred year old wine press. The owner, Attila Mahr, a colorful character who started the venture more than a decade before Communist rule ended, believes eating and drinking are matters of confidence. Hence, every dish is prepared in full view of his patrons. The Roast Goose with berries blended "sweet and tart" with absolute perfection.
Attila participates with a local art gallery in creating an art exhibit, aptly named, "Artistic Cuisine". The annual exhibit consists of pairing individual paintings by Hungarian artists with Hungarian wines and recipes created by Attlia to be enjoyed while viewing the paintings. The result is an artistic expression that raises the bar and gives new meaning to the expression "Culinary Arts."
For more information on the many "surprises" Hungary has to offer, visit the Hungarian National Tourist Office web site at www.gotohungary.com
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