The wilds of Western Scotland make this cruise experience far more an adventure cruise than one might expect. Stark islands, desolate beaches, driving rain, brilliant sun, long hair Highland cattle, incredible whiskey to help ward off the cold and the quirky Scottish islanders, combine to make Alaska seem tame. The majesty of Skye's Cuillin Hills while hiking the "boggy" (muddy) trails by Loch Scavaig simply makes life worth living! We were up close and personal with scores of cold water seals basking on rocks in the sun as our Zodiac came within yards of these "Scottish" natives. Throw into the mix several Scottish castles, the bloody history of Scotland, men in kilts and "a tasting o' Haggis" and you've got a typical Hebridean Princess itinerary.

The ship accommodates a mere 49 guests in comfortably appointed staterooms. Each stateroom is decorated individually, furnished with "a country manor house" flair incorporating a veritable rainbow of Scottish tartans and named for one of the Western Scottish Isles... many of which we visited during the cruise. Private bathrooms are sumptuous with marble floors and walls, heated towel racks, dark wood cabinets and enormous tubs. Bathroom amenities are provided by Molton & Brown. With eleven staterooms dedicated to solo travelers, this is one ship that caters to individuals traveling on their own. Singles dine together at one of the officer's tables and are invited to take part in shore excursions escorted by the ship's guide.

The primary public room, the Tiree Lounge, has over stuffed armchairs, comfy sofas, an enormous faux fireplace and magnificent views through big picture windows. Here guests gather to read, enjoy afternoon tea or have a before dinner drink. Traditionally, after dinner, coffee is served here (not in the dining room) while the onboard guide gives a brief talk on the next days adventures. Nearby is a library, a smoking lounge with high backed chairs and a conservatory... all with great views. The only thing missing was Miss Marple and a good game of "Clue"!

As you might guess, the atmosphere onboard was a bit reserved, but after a few days everyone interacted politely and a few laughs were had by all. The ship offers a unique experience, combining destination, magnificent scenery, comfort and fine dining with the intimacy of a small group, while maintaining a well defined sense of privacy and personal space. As the only Americans onboard, we really were the "foreigners" and were treated to a bird's eye view of British manners and custom. The Officers were British or Scottish, but the bulk of the service staff were from Latvia. This made for some language problems and was a bit incongruous with the country manor house feel of the ship, but everyone was very attentive.

Dining onboard the Hebridean Princess is always a special event and serves as a focal point for the Hebridean experience. Meals are served in the stylishly paneled Columba Restaurant. Crisp white linens, fine silver and crystal define the ambiance of this intimate dining room. Large picture windows provide grand views. Oddly, the tables for two, lining the windows on either side, are set facing into the room with views of fellow diners rather than the stunning scenery. With hushed conversations, just the clinking of silverware and no background music, mealtimes tend to feel a bit formal. Guests do "dress" for dinner and the two formal nights found most men sporting either a tux or formal kilts. The wait staff is well versed, accommodating and quite thoughtful.

Now in his second season on the Hebridean Princess, Executive Chef, Paul Sim (see Chef Notes) is a contemporary talent. He has transitioned the flavor of dining onboard from traditional Scottish cookery to incorporate the latest innovations and current techniques found in the best land-based restaurants. Under his direction, the Columba Restaurant could hold its own against any of the most popular, trendy restaurants in London or New York.

Using the best ingredients and products Scotland has to offer, such as divine Scottish smoked salmon and Buccleuch beef ... more expensive than the famous Scottish Angus, presentation and preparation never disappointed. Typical starters included items like Pan Seared Scallops in a Thai green curry sauce, fresh Colonsay Oysters with an English mustard glaze, Roast Pigeon Breast or warm Goat Cheese and Onion Tart. Dinner entree choices included diverse selections such as Roast Breast of Guinea Fowl, Grilled Skate Wing over Tomato Salsa, Roast Saddle of Grampian

Chief Purser Charles

Venison on a Blackberry Mash or Monkfish fresh from Scotland's West Coast with a wild mushroom fricassee.

Soups had true "from the farm" character yet delicate enhancements and textures delineated them from mere "home cooking". Curried parsnip, cream of wild mushroom, celeriac and Scotch broth were just a few of the wonderful varieties served. Luscious sorbets like Mandarin Orange or Cassis were served to clear the palate prior to main entrees and the cheese course featured a wonderful array of fine Scottish selections. The variety and innovative approach was truly impressive, while traditional luncheon choices like Steak and Kidney Pie or Fish & Chips were perfectly executed and absolutely delicious.

An exclusive selection of table wines especially chosen by Haynes, Hanson & Clark of Belgravia, London, beautifully complemented each meal. The wine cellar selection was quite diverse, including red and white wines from select vintners in France, Italy, Chile, Spain, Australia and New Zealand. Both lunch and dinner menus were available to review by late morning in the Tiree Lounge... so, if nothing appeals, the dining room will happily prepare a special order, a simple grilled chicken breast or a delicious Scottish steak fillet.

The Hebridean Princess is truly unique and one of the most surprising cruise experiences I have encountered. The scenery is wild, breathtaking and satisfying. The ship is indulgent and gives one the opportunity to experience a sense of what it is like to be "of the manor born."

For more information about cruising the Hebrides and the Scottish Highlands, log onto their website at www.hebridean.co.uk