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A&K - Small Ship Cruising With Distinction
 I love cruising and have always thought "the Cruise" is the thing. I never fully appreciate the history and traditions of the destinations I visit before, during and after a cruise. When crafted by a distinguished tour operator such as Abercrombie & Kent (A&K), a cruise becomes part of a well orchestrated, multidimensional exploration of a region, its people, history and customs.
A&K's magical formula starts with the selection of a unique, upscale small ship combined with a menu of rare and exotic ports of call. Add to the mix, the most elegant hotels, fantastic restaurants and regional cuisine. Garnish with expert tour hosts and guides, who are warm, friendly and professional. Add guests who consider themselves well-seasoned travelers, not tourists, and you've got the perfect A&K recipe for a travel experience that is so much more than just a cruise.
Upon arrival at the new Athens International Airport, I was met by one of A&K's network of "Guardian Angels." As the term implies, this wonderful gentleman greeted me with a smile and accompanied me to a private limo that whisked us to the center of Athens. During the drive, my guardian angel inquired if I had any questions about the program or accommodations and assured me this would be a very special and care-free holiday.
The A&K Sea Cloud programs set the standard for the travel industry. They are the best escorted programs in Europe – due to the unique array of features, exclusive to A&K. The Guardian Angel network along with the Traveling Bellboy and several other unique touches makes A&K simply the best way to travel.
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| A&K Guide |
Check-in was effortless at the Hotel Grand Bretagne. In keeping with A&K's tradition of providing only the best accommodations, this newly renovated 5-star hotel, located in the center of Athens, is magnificent. That evening, we met our charming A&K Guide, Anna Marda and fellow travelers for drinks and orientation in the hotel's Athenian Hall. We then enjoyed a Welcome dinner in the Grand Ballroom.
After a much needed rest, the next day began with a sumptuous buffet breakfast followed by a tour of Athens' highlights including the Parliament, Hadrian's Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. The pace was relaxed and our guide's commentary was informative keeping everyone's interest. Her words gave a sense of "living history" as we stood at the foot of the Parthenon, the very cradle of Western civilization. Lunch preceded our visit to the Plaka, Athens' ancient market place. The rest of our afternoon was free. Arrangements made by A&K, allowed us to choose dinner at the Hotel or at one of several recommended local restaurants.
The following day we enjoyed a leisurely visit to the Benaki Museum, noted for its collection of antiquities. It was then on to Piraeus for lunch at a local yacht club with a spectacular view of the bay.
In only two days A&K had already made this trip fantastic, having so richly filled our time ashore even before we boarded our ship.
The Sea Cloud
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| The Sea Cloud |
Like an aerial ballet the blond, blue-eyed young Germans took to the masts. The Captain had given the order to unfurl the sails. The northwesterly winds were favorable and the Sea Cloud was about to embrace them, to do what she was designed for! As the youthful European teams scurried up the "ratlines" on each of the four masts, they proceeded directly to the highest yardarm. Then, as they delicately balanced on just a thin foot line, the well-trained crew members spread out along the yardarms and put their backs into freeing the confined sails. This graceful exercise continued until all the sails were unfurled. Then the crew, now more a team then ever, began to work the complicated rigging. As they pulled hard on the various lines, the sails came alive as they filled with wind.
While my fellow passengers and I witnessed this almost forgotten maritime artistry, my head filled with images of the great Yankee Clipper ships. The Sea Cloud's deck took on the prominent list characteristic of a ship under full sail in a steady wind. At that strangely quite moment, with only the sound of the wind filling the sails, I realized I was witnessing maritime history!
As the Sea Cloud sailed from Piraeus, guests relaxed and met the A&K cruise director, Suzana D'Oliveira. The itinerary called for stops at several Greek islands, visits to some obscure, albeit, charming Turkish ports on the Aegean Sea and winding up the week in Istanbul. I, however, was onboard the Sea Cloud to sail! As it turned out, so were my fellow passengers, who all agreed to forego one of the ports in favor of an extra day of sailing.
The four-masted barque was built in 1931 as a private yacht for the cereal heiress, Marjorie Merriweather Post. It was a gift from her husband, E. F. Hutton of Wall Street fame. It became an exclusive gathering spot for the cream of society, royalty and heads of state. After half a century, which included a stint as a weather station for allied forces during World War II, the Sea Cloud was restored to its former glory and converted for passenger service.
Cabins were added to the original-eight suites for a total of 34. That's right; the Sea Cloud accommodates only 68 well-heeled guests in air-conditioned comfort. She maintains a private, club-like atmosphere, yet is far from being stuffy. On our sailing, over half the passengers were Americans and the rest European, including the German owner of the boat with his 12-year-old son who, much to the delight of everyone became an honorary member of the crew. Everyone mixed well, became friendly and thoroughly enjoyed the sailing experience.
The newer cabins are very comfortable and well appointed; yet don't approach the size or the opulence of the eight original suites. My cabin was original, but not a suite. It had a marble bathroom with shower, two twin wood-paneled "sea worthy" beds, plenty of closet space and a real bed & breakfast charm to it (it must have been the original servants quarters). Toward the end of the week, after everyone has gotten to know each other, guests in the original cabins, 1 through 12 are invited to open their cabins up for a cocktail party hosted by the staff so fellow passengers can see, first hand, how Marjorie and her friends lived. It was great fun and we all realized, since you can't take it with you, you might as well swing for an original suite on the Sea Cloud at least once in your life!
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| Greek Islands |
Shipboard life is very unstructured. Aside from the adventure of sailing, reading on deck and conversation seemed the most common way to spend a day on Sea Cloud. Several days during the voyage we enjoyed swimming in the Aegean, either by jumping into the sea from the boat or just watching the fun. Another club-like activity was a skeet shooting competition on the fantail. It was great fun and very competitive. At one point, when the owner of the vessel finally missed a round, one wag consoled him by reminding him that at least he still owned the boat! Everyone, including the owner, had a good laugh.
The experience of dining onboard the Sea Cloud is memorable, but at times the quality of the cuisine was inconsistent. A sumptuous breakfast buffet is served daily in the main dining room, which also serves as the primary indoor lounge. Dark wood paneling with plants and cushioned banquettes creates a feeling of "old money." Nautical paintings of sailing ships adorn the bulkheads.
Luncheon is served on the open promenade deck and is also a buffet featuring hearty German-style cuisine. German potato and beet salads along with creamed soups, loin of pork and apple strudel were typical fare. Wine, iced tea and bottled water were available at no additional cost. Guests could opt for eating outdoors on the covered lido deck or have their trays taken into the dining room. On one particularly windy day, while under sail, the staff had to hold onto the buffet tables to prevent them from going over the side! Open seating is the rule in the dining room. The Captain, a very affable fellow, invites several different guests to his table each evening. The dinner menu is set and posted during the day. If you prefer, you may request a special order for one course or the entire meal as you like. Entrees included fresh salmon, sole, filet mignon among others, all made to order. The new Australian chef was a bit heavy handed with sauces for my taste, but a serving sans sauce was readily available upon request. The general consensus was the chef was over zealous; trying too hard to impress. As a result expectations in the dining room were not always met. Sorbet was served to clear the palate before the main course. Desserts tended to be heavy and typically European.
Upon Arrival at Kusadasi, we toured the stunning Roman ruins at Ephesus, had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the sea where we enjoyed delicious local delicacies, then flew to Istanbul...all under the watchful caring eye of our A&K Host. We spent three more days experiencing the wonders of Istanbul, the Luxury of the Ciragan Palace Hotel (once the home to Turkish Sultans) and the mysteries of this gateway city to Asia; all with the personal attention and expert arrangements of A&K.
During the summer, the Sea Cloud calls on ports in the Mediterranean and Aegean. She is based in Antigua during the winter, sailing to a variety of smaller islands including St. Kitts and Nevis, Bequia, Dominica and Saba. In 2004, A&K is again offering an Aegean Sea Athens to Athens Sea Cloud program in October. For more information about sailing on the Sea Cloud with A&K, visit their web site at www.abercrombiekent.com
Oh, and if you want to reserve Marjorie Merriweather Post's very own Suite to see how the other half lived, rates for the Athens program start at a mere $16,525 per person based on double occupancy. Bon Voyage!
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